This past week we were treated to a walking tour of old Lima by our friends the Andersons. They are extremely knowledgeable about Lima, its past and present. We visited several colonial era homes, or maybe mansions would be a better term including that of Admiral Grau, as well as a beautiful 18th Century Cathedral. We took a few photos to share. Inside the Cathedral of the Virgin de Mercedes, simply known as the Merced Church, there were warnings about not using your cell phone but no proscriptions against photography. The Virgin Mercedes is the Saint responsible for the guns of Peru. Peru's history has not been an easy one, but rather a violent one. More than 170 civilizations and cultures have been identified here before the Incan armies swept over the Andes Mountains, highlands and coastal planes prior to the Spanish conquest. We had lunch by a very pleasant water fountain where only recently Francisco Pizarro's heroic statue had stood. It was removed by Lima's last mayor to another site, less in the public view, by design. Warfare and conquest are all the people here have known through their entire history up to the start of the 20th Century. A border dispute with Ecuador led to several smaller battles in 1941 and again in 1995. It was only settled by diplomatic efforts of the United States, Chile, Argentina, and Brasil in 1998.
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| RuthAnn and the Andersons, our guides |
It is quite natural then for a church to be located on the Plaza of Arms with a Saint to look after their guns. I have been told that in the War of the Pacific invading Chilenos soldiers fathered a number of babies without benefit of a last name and the Lima white pages today list a number of surnames simply as "Chilenos." The conquest and the occupation of Peru by Chile for a decade still can raise tempers and the ire of more than a few Peruanos. I supposed this would logically spill over to the soccer field and with a little research this was confirmed. A cup has been created called the Copa del Pacifico for the winner of the The Ecuador, Chile, and Peruvian soccer teams. CNN has noted the competition for the Pacific Cup is among the top ten rivalries in the world, surpassing even that of Utah versus BYU.
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| Merced Church on the Plaza del Armas |
Among the booty of that war was the loss of Peru's flag ship the Huascar and the death of its valiant and honorable Admiral Grau. The Huascar was a "Monitor" Civil War type vessel and was very effective in delaying the invasion of Peru by Chile. Prior to that it was used in the region's rebellion and war of independence against Spain. It took nearly the entire Chilean Navy to stop the Huascar and capture it and its crew. The Admiral died from injuries sustained in that last sea battle. As a prize of war it was taken to Chile and made a part of their navy until the mid 20th Century. A number of Peruvians would like it returned to Peru where it rightfully belongs.
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| Interior of the Merced Church |
Later in the week we had a group of missionaries from the CCM (MTC) here in Lima and I noticed one had a lapel flag of Chile on his suit jacket. In my best Spanish I suggested to him Chile needed to return the Huascar to Peru. My request was greeted by good natured agreement and chuckles from all of his Peruvian missionary friends. They all knew exactly what I was talking about. This was as they were leaving and picking up their checked cameras at the recommend desk which I was manning for part of the day.
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| An artist's conception of the Huascar during her fighting days. Note the Flag of Peru on the stern |
We continue to be fascinated by Peru's rich culture, its history, and heritage. Troublesome portents are on the horizon for Peru as there is a politician rising in the presidential polls after the manner of Hugo Chavez of Venezuela. Narco money has been tracked and is found in presidential politics. As noted previously, Peru is the number one supplier of cocaine in the world. Though the economy is growing robustly, only second to China this past year, that wealth is and has not found its way to the poor, of which there are so many yet in Peru.
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| The Huascar today as it lies at anchor in Chilenos' hands |
The Gentleman of the Seas Miguel Grau
ReplyDeleteAt the Battle of Iquique, after Huáscar sank the Chilean corvette Esmeralda by ramming her, Grau ordered the rescue of the surviving crew from the waters. Grau also wrote condolences to the widow of his opponent Arturo Prat, returning his sword and personal effects.
Letter to Carmela Carvajal de Prat (Prat's widow)
Dear Madam:
I have a sacred duty that authorizes me to write you, despite knowing that this letter will deepen your profound pain, by reminding you of recent battles.
During the naval combat that took place in the waters of Iquique, between the Chilean and Peruvian ships, on the 21st day of the last month, your worthy and valiant husband Captain Mr. Arturo Prat, Commander of the Esmeralda, was, like you would not ignore any longer, victim of his reckless valor in defense and glory of his country’s flag.
While sincerely deploring this unfortunate event and sharing your sorrow, I comply with the sad duty of sending you some of his belongings, invaluable for you, which I list at the end of this letter. Undoubtedly, they will serve of small consolation in the middle of your misfortune, and I have hurried in remitting them to you.
Reiterating my feelings of condolence, I take the opportunity of offering you my services, considerations and respects and I render myself at your disposal.
(Signed) Ship Capt. Miguel Grau
At the port of Antofagasta, after sneaking up on an enemy ship, he courteously asked the crew to abandon ship before opening fire. These and other gestures earned him the nickname of el Caballero de los Mares ("Gentleman of the Seas") from his Chilean opponents, acknowledging an extraordinary sense of chivalry and his gentlemanly behaviour, combined with his highly-efficient and brave combat career.