Tree ripened bananas and temples older than the pyramids of Egypt

We returned from two days of touring archaeological sites in the Casma/Sechin Valley, which is about four hours north of Lima along the Pan American Highway. We visited several sites. The oldest of the structures datse to about 3500 BCE. These constructions predate the pyramids of Egypt by a thousand years, making them the oldest in the Americas as well.  Sorry, George Potter, but they predate the Jaredites also. We have been studying and reading about these fascinating sites including several journal articles. Very good information comes from professionals trained in the field such as Peru's well known archaeologist Ivan Ghezzi. He is a Yale PhD, and has extensively studied these sites in the Casma/Sechin Valley and others from Peru's past. 

Seen from the air, the oldest of three different Sechin Complexes

We also hiked about the oldest solar observatory in the Americas and to a hilltop fortress overlooking the valley or pampas. The complex is named Chankillo. It dates to the 4th century BC. We hoped to observe the setting sun in the solar observatory but clouds prevented us. Though Casma Peru is known as the city of eternal sun, the included photo required some 'photoshopping' to illustrate the rising sun between one of the 13 stone towers on the hill.

The residents of Chankillo could determine the month of the year by 

observing the rising or setting sun from either side of this hill which

had 13 stone towers or torres piedras. Their year like the Inca, 2,000 

years after them, started with the Winter Solstice of June 21. 

The fortress on the hilltop overlooking the valley. Two wooden towers once 

stood in the center.  The fortress was likely used for ceremonial functions
more than as a defensive structure. This conclusion was reached  for a variety of reasons
 according to Dr. Ghezzi. 

The fortress walls were 12-15 tall in places but all had suffered serious damage

from the 1970 earthquake.

Three distinct constructions of the wall are evident in this outer wall of the fortress

The fortress overlooking the valley is three walled, but a serious earthquake in 1970 damaged this site and much of Northern Peru. The earthquake ranged from 7.9 to 8.1 on the Richter Scale and lasted only for 45 seconds. Over a million people were left homeless and estimates are that 80,000 Peruvians perished in the disaster. Relief efforts were slow in coming as the Pan American Highway was too severely damaged to allow passage. Many archaeological sites were damaged including this fortress at Chankillo whose walls before 1970 had been much taller. Many of the structures destroyed were adobe, not designed for any seismic loadings. No tsunami was created by this quake where the Nazca Plate subducts under the South American Plate. Peru is no stranger to serious earthquakes and is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. This area stretches from Japan through the Aleutians and down the West Coast of the US and through western South America.  90% of the world's earthquakes and 80% of the largest earthquakes in the world occur along this Ring of Fire. Volcanos too, dot the map along this horseshoe shaped ring.

This photo from the news archives of Peru needs no caption

In Casma we enjoyed incredible food including a speciality of the area, called Ceviche de Pato con Frejoles. I would not have ordered duck as there was cuy de pica (pepper spiced guinea pig) on the menu. It is also one of the local favorites. I have not had duck before in Peru but our friend C ordered it, so I tried it and was very pleased. This restaurant had a photo of Peru's last president on the wall with the owners.  If Alan Garcia ate there you know it had to be good.

I had thought all cebiche was uncooked fish or seafood but 

this was wonderfully cooked duck with beans and rice

Coming and going through the valley we passed orchards of mango, papaya trees, bananas, asparagus and cotton fields. Peru is world famous for many things including its Algodon Pima Cotton.  The cotton plants were much taller than anything I have seen in the Southern US or Arizona.  Shirts made from this Peruvian cotton have a shine and softness almost like silk.

The cotton plants were easily six feet tall. 

Oranges and bananas in your yard, imagine 

We love the archaeological sites and certainly nothing compares to Machu Picchu. We are returning there next week with family. The high point of this trip was the encounter we had with the 81 year old patriarch.  We walked through his farm and orchards to get to this oldest ruin in the Casma Valley, called Sechin Bajo. Sr. Silva offered us fresh bananas picked from one of his trees. We had eaten his oranges and we stopped on our return from the ruins to pay him. There were six of us plundering his orange tree and maracuya vines. He was very happy to receive payment and asked if I liked "platinos frescas?" "Claro" or "of course," I responded.  He was very happy to share his fruit with us. We had a pleasant conversation about how good the bananas and oranges were and how much better the food in Peru is than the USA. He seemed very pleased that I liked so many Peruvian dishes including cebiche. Anyone who knows the difference between store bought tomatoes and something you grow yourself in your garden can understand what it could be like to have tree ripened bananas and oranges too.

Our new friend Señor Silva looks better at 81 than I do at 63. He attributed it

to his diet of organic fruits and vegetables that he grows on his farm. That is

his house to the left. Part of it is made from adobe the other from dried sticks

bound  and woven together and covered with clay and other earthen materials. 

We have observed this same type of composite waddle and daub construction in

the earliest structures we have visited. It is once again becoming popular as a 

sustainable form of home construction.

We visited longer and he told us of the site and how many people had come to it.  He is hoping the archaeologists will get the funding to continue to work at Sechin Bajo.  Scientists believe further excavation could result in older ruins, pushing back even further civilization in Peru. Our new friend Sr. Silva asked that we return. I would like to do that again one day. We wish we were more fluent in his language.  He has undoubtedly seen many things and has many stories to tell. There are more ruins in
the complex to be visited and hopefully on a clear morning watch the rise of the sun over Chankillo.

The stairs to the Sechin Cerro or 3rd period construction are divided in two

as is the entire temple complex.  Scientists theorize this was symbolic of the

duality of life. It was about opposites for the Sechin people. 

A Sechin warrior carved in relief at this third period temple

mural. He is carrying a war club. The mural, larger than life,
included many depictions of decapitations, severed limbs,
and eyeless victims expressing pain. Some question has
been raised whether they should be interpreted as mythical
characters, or as part of ritualized warfare, rather than actual
battle or combat.